Mink, fox, Rex rabbit, lamb: which fur?
Four materials come up again and again when you are looking for a fur: mink, fox, Rex rabbit and lamb. They are not alike. They do not weigh the same, do not hold the same silhouette, do not ask for the same care and do not age in the same way. This guide compares the four point by point, to help you choose the one that matches how you will actually wear it.
How to read a fur
A fur has two layers. The underfur, short and dense, sits at the base: it traps air and therefore warmth. The guard hair, longer and stiffer, forms the visible layer: it gives the shine, protects the underfur and takes the rubbing. The ratio between the two layers explains almost everything: the hand, the volume, the weight, the durability.
Under the hair is the pelt, that is, the tanned skin. Its suppleness and thickness determine how the garment falls and how long it lasts. A fine, supple pelt gives a fluid garment. A thicker pelt gives a structured, heavier piece.
Mink
Hand and look
Mink combines a very dense underfur with short, glossy guard hairs. The pile is flat, even, shiny. The hand slides over it without resistance. Visually it is the most discreet of the four: the volume stays under control, the effect comes from the shine and the depth of the colour.
Hold and weight
Mink pelt is fine and supple. The garment falls straight, follows the body, does not flare out. That is what makes long mink coats possible without bulk. The weight stays moderate for the surface covered.
Warmth
The density of the underfur gives high insulation for little thickness. Mink protects well against dry cold. It is less comfortable in prolonged rain, like all short-haired furs.
Care
The flat pile is easy to untangle. Regular rubbing, particularly under the arms, at the cuffs and under a shoulder strap, eventually wears the guard hair and exposes the underfur. That is the main thing to watch.
Who it suits
Those who want a piece worn often, over a long time, without spectacle. Mink takes daily wear better than long-haired furs. See the mink pieces.
Fox
Hand and look
Fox is the opposite of mink. The guard hairs are long, often several centimetres, with thick underfur beneath. The hair moves, catches the light in locks, produces volume. It is the most demonstrative of the four.
Hold and weight
The volume widens the silhouette, above all at the shoulders and the collar. A short fox jacket changes the proportions of a whole outfit. The perceived weight stays reasonable for the volume, because much of that volume is air.
Warmth
Very good, particularly on exposed areas: collar, hood, neckline. The long hair breaks the wind before it reaches the underfur.
Care
Long hair tangles and flattens. It needs airing and combing with a wide-toothed comb. A fox piece stored tight between two garments loses its volume and does not recover it easily. See the fox pieces.
Who it suits
Occasional wear, or those looking for a piece that shows. Fox ages well if it is rubbed little, less well if it serves as an everyday coat with a shoulder bag.
Rex rabbit
Hand and look
Rex rabbit is a breed whose hair is short, very dense and almost free of protruding guard hairs. The result is a flat, velvety surface, close to the hand of a thick velvet. Light does not catch on it as it does on mink: the finish is matte and soft.
Hold and weight
It is the lightest of the four materials compared here. The garment wears like an ordinary jacket. In return, rabbit pelt is fine and more fragile than mink. It takes repeated tension, strained seams and snags badly.
Warmth
Good for mid-season or an urban winter. The short hair and the absence of long guard hairs offer less protection from wind than fox.
Care
The velvet marks: areas that are sat on or rubbed take on a flattened look. Light brushing in the direction of the pile is usually enough to lift it. The fragility of the pelt means avoiding thin hangers and compressed storage. See the Rex rabbit pieces.
Who it suits
A first fur, light wear, anyone looking for comfort rather than maximum longevity.
Lamb
Hand and look
Lamb covers two very different families. Shearling keeps the wool on the skin: the finish is warm, matte, woolly, often worn wool inside and leather outside. Curly lamb, by contrast, has tight, even curls on a flat, glossy surface.
Hold and weight
It is the most structured material of the group. The pelt is thicker, the garment holds its shape, the shoulders stay drawn. Shearling is also the heaviest of the four. Curly lamb is markedly lighter and allows close-fitting cuts.
Warmth
Shearling is the warmest in this comparison, and the most tolerant of damp and wind. It is an outdoor material. Curly lamb protects less: its interest is the line, not extreme insulation.
Care
Wool is brushed and aired. Stains on the exposed leather of a shearling are hard to treat yourself. Curly lamb mainly suffers from crushed curls. See the lamb pieces.
Who it suits
Shearling for demanding, cold, outdoor wear. Curly lamb for a city piece, clean and plain.
Summary of the differences
- The most discreet and the most versatile: mink.
- The most voluminous and the most visible: fox.
- The lightest and the softest: Rex rabbit.
- The most structured and the warmest: lamb, as shearling.
- The most resistant to daily wear: mink, ahead of lamb.
- The most delicate: Rex rabbit, because of the fineness of the pelt.
Three questions to ask before choosing
How many times a week will you wear it? Daily wear points to mink or lamb. Occasional wear opens the choice to fox.
Do you carry a shoulder bag? A shoulder strap is the first cause of wear on a fur. It penalises long hair and fine pelt.
What silhouette are you after? A straight, fluid line calls for mink or curly lamb. A wide, enveloping line calls for fox.
After the choice
Choosing the material is only half the subject. The cut, the length and the use count just as much. Our notes on the materials go through each fur one by one, and the care and passing on page explains how to keep a piece in condition over several decades.
